by Mr. Marty » Tue Sep 07, 2021 1:47 am
As far as good gear goes. Name brand and money. When it comes to lenses don't go cheap. If you have any idea about printing large prints or posting very large images you need good glass. You may get aberration's or bleeding of individual RGB colors at the edge of objects in the photo. This increases with smaller apertures On average and I mean on average a lenses ideal aperture is somewhere between f8 and f11. Adjusting the aperture is not just about the amount of light coming in, although it is the primary function, it determine how wide your depth of focus is, depth of field. So clamping down to F22 or higher might add to the depth of what is in focus but in also increases the chromatic aberration. This not only applies to lens brands an price but also to individual lenses of the same model. I have seen really expensive lenses produce some really shitty photos. at high apertures. I have an old Nikkor 85mm f1.9 that is tack sharp. I use it for lightning. But that lens is not ideal for high depth of field shots. It is killer for bokeh shots like the one hnry just posted.
All the major manufactures make good glass. The also make shit glass. Like a good guitar, your are gonna pay for quality.
I hate autofocus. It often does not focus on what I want. The screens are so shit that the DOF does not show very well so toying with the aperture becomes an exercise in frustration. At night autofocus does not work, period. This is why I use the older Nikkor 85mm. It stops turning at infinity unlike an autofocus lens. Even on the D800E. I want more older lenses but they have to have modifications to work on the Nikon AI mount.
Despite all that probably the most important piece of equipment, other than the camera and lens, is a good STURDY tripod. This single item, though not cheap, is what improved my shots the most. I have a tendency to shoot in low light. I never try to handhold a shot below 1/125 of a second. shutter speed. It is a royal pain in the ass but once you get use to it you will be much more pleased with your sharpness. Also, in really low light conditions, lock your mirror up before taking the shot. Most cameras have this feature. The mirror slapping the top of the view finder causes vibration. Once the shot is framed and focused lock the mirror up then shoot. Many modern camera have a delay function temporarily locking the mirror before the shot. Of cource with a camera like hnrys there is no mirror as there is no view finder. No shutter curtain either. Still a tripod is the first and best accessory to have.
hnry and I are at extremes, He is using a modern camera that has been designed to take care of all these issues. Making spectular photos is easier. Me, I have several 4x5 film cameras here. Despite these camera and their design being centuries old there are things these cameras can do that the most moders cannot. That is perspective. It is why Heikki is having trouble with his smart phone shots, perspective. On the old cameras the lens can be tilted along 4 axis, left to right, top to bottom, tilt up/down, tilt left/right. Many of these cameras also have the same movements on the rear standard where the ground glass and film are. Check out Ansel Adams.
As far as good gear goes. Name brand and money. When it comes to lenses don't go cheap. If you have any idea about printing large prints or posting very large images you need good glass. You may get aberration's or bleeding of individual RGB colors at the edge of objects in the photo. This increases with smaller apertures On average and I mean on average a lenses ideal aperture is somewhere between f8 and f11. Adjusting the aperture is not just about the amount of light coming in, although it is the primary function, it determine how wide your depth of focus is, depth of field. So clamping down to F22 or higher might add to the depth of what is in focus but in also increases the chromatic aberration. This not only applies to lens brands an price but also to individual lenses of the same model. I have seen really expensive lenses produce some really shitty photos. at high apertures. I have an old Nikkor 85mm f1.9 that is tack sharp. I use it for lightning. But that lens is not ideal for high depth of field shots. It is killer for bokeh shots like the one hnry just posted.
All the major manufactures make good glass. The also make shit glass. Like a good guitar, your are gonna pay for quality.
I hate autofocus. It often does not focus on what I want. The screens are so shit that the DOF does not show very well so toying with the aperture becomes an exercise in frustration. At night autofocus does not work, period. This is why I use the older Nikkor 85mm. It stops turning at infinity unlike an autofocus lens. Even on the D800E. I want more older lenses but they have to have modifications to work on the Nikon AI mount.
Despite all that probably the most important piece of equipment, other than the camera and lens, is a good STURDY tripod. This single item, though not cheap, is what improved my shots the most. I have a tendency to shoot in low light. I never try to handhold a shot below 1/125 of a second. shutter speed. It is a royal pain in the ass but once you get use to it you will be much more pleased with your sharpness. Also, in really low light conditions, lock your mirror up before taking the shot. Most cameras have this feature. The mirror slapping the top of the view finder causes vibration. Once the shot is framed and focused lock the mirror up then shoot. Many modern camera have a delay function temporarily locking the mirror before the shot. Of cource with a camera like hnrys there is no mirror as there is no view finder. No shutter curtain either. Still a tripod is the first and best accessory to have.
hnry and I are at extremes, He is using a modern camera that has been designed to take care of all these issues. Making spectular photos is easier. Me, I have several 4x5 film cameras here. Despite these camera and their design being centuries old there are things these cameras can do that the most moders cannot. That is perspective. It is why Heikki is having trouble with his smart phone shots, perspective. On the old cameras the lens can be tilted along 4 axis, left to right, top to bottom, tilt up/down, tilt left/right. Many of these cameras also have the same movements on the rear standard where the ground glass and film are. Check out Ansel Adams.